Undertones are how we define whether a color is warm or cool

JKS International cream color shades have been divided into numbered series as well as alphabetical symbols 

1. The first figure indicates the base level 

2. The second figure after the comma indicates the dominant tone. AND if there is a third figure 

3. The third figure indicates a secondary highlight tone

How to read a number [8,45]

Example: How to read a number [8,45] or ( 8 CR ) 

8,45. The 8 indicates the base level (light blonde), the 4 or C represents the dominant tone (copper), the 5 or R determines the secondary highlights (red).

8,45 or 8 CR = Light Coppery Red

 

When the second figure is a zero followed by a third figure, this indicates that the tone is only slightly present. 

If the third figure is the same as the second, this indicates greater intensity in the tone. 

Example: 8,33 or 8 GG = Medium Intense Golden Blonde.

Introducing the JKS International Cream Color Series

 

JKS International Cream Color Mixing Ratio of Color and Peroxide:

30 mil of JKS Int. Cream Color (= 1/2 tube) +

45 mil of JKS Int. Cream Developer (= 1.5 oz)

The first 15 minutes of processing relates to the fitting of the hair color

The next 30 minutes relates to the depositing of hair color

      Correctors or concentrates are used as an additive to the natural range of colors.

      Correctors are used as color fillers - tinting back from bleached hair.

      Correctors are used to counteract or correct unwanted color.

      They can be used for special coloring effects.

Method of use: If you were using a lighter shade an 8 or 9 level, then you would add very little corrector (1/2 inc of corrector). If you are using a darker shade - you can safely add 3 or 4 inc of corrector.

Neutral 00.00 (gloss)

Also as 'A Bleaching Cream' - Creating Half Shade Depth With Neutral 00.00

Time of Lift > Versus Depositing of Color - General Rule of Thumb: 

 

Choosing the Correct Shade for Coloring White/Grey Hair 

% of White/Grey Hair

 

Coloring White / Grey Hair

0-20% White/Grey Hair 

Natural Series by themselves. Fashion shade +1 or 2 inches of natural shade to hold color

20-40% White/Grey Hair 

1/2 Natural shade + 1/2 fashion shade for 100% coverage and color hold. Optional: Use of 15 volume peroxide will also increase the amount of color depositing into the hair

40% or More of White/Grey Hair 

2 parts Natural shade + 1 part fashion shade for 100% coverage and color hold. Optional: Use of 15 volume peroxide will also increase the amount of color depositing into the hair. This will be dependent on the color effect you are creating 

For best result to cover white hairs with any hair colors

Mix 2 Parts Color + 1 Part 30 Volume Peroxide

30 ml of Color (1/2 tube color) + 15 ml of 30 volume peroxide

2 oz of Color (1 tube color) + 1 oz of 30 volume peroxide

Lightening of Hair Color

Lightening Color Levels (Remaining Pigmentation)

 

When lightening hair one needs to consider the levels of the color the hair goes through. It is recommended that you lighten 1 shade lighter than color desired. Then apply the correct toner.

JKS Ultra Lift Series (UL) = (11.00)

Ultra lift tints are mild cream bleach with added pigments, buffers and conditioning agents. When the access ammonia is mixed with H202 it makes them much stronger than normal tints. The addition of conditioning agents makes this a product a gentle alternative to powder bleach. They have the ability to lift the natural base levels from 6 to 10 approximately 3-4 shades. The excess ammonia gives the Ultra Lift Series the power of lift. Buffers are needed to control the pH. This is to reduce the damage to the hair created by the high alkalinity. Artificial pigments are also added to the Ultra Lift Series.

How Does "Ultra Lift" Work?

  In the first 30 minutes of the processing time, the natural pigment is lightening. The rest of the processing time is spent with color being deposited or added to the hair. These pigments will either neutralize warm blonde or add pastel tones. The JKS Ultra Lifts have no natural base present to affix a blonde color.

JKS Ultra Lift Series (High Lifts)

From Level 6 without too much red or orange pigment will lift 3-4 Shades.

Method of Use: Mixing Ratio: 1 + 1

For Example: 60 ml (1tube) of Ultra Lift Series (11.00) + 60 ml (2 oz) of 30 or 40 Volume Peroxide

To Lift 4-5 Shades ADD MORE PEROXIDE to 30 ml (1/2 tube) of Ultra Lift Series  (11.00) + 50 ml (1.7 oz) of 30 to 40 Volume Peroxide

Or

ADD MORE NEUTRAL to 30 ml (1/2 tube) of Ultra Lift Series and 1.5 ox of 30 or 40 Volume Peroxide  + 15 ml Neutral (00.00)

BLEACHING POWDER

Bleach comes in the form of powder, which contains ammonium persulfate. These ammonia products when mixed with H202 form a thick paste. When Applied directly to the hair it gives maximum lift. Bleaching powder is the strongest form of bleach.